by ellen.dressler -

04 | Overview of international agreements on sustainability

Although the goals of European environmental protection agreements such as the 2050 long-term strategy or the green deal are very important, achieving climate neutrality in Europe by 2050 will only have a limited impact on mitigating climate change if other countries do not take similar measures. International agreements, such as the Paris Agreement and the Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework, as well as the Sustainable Development Goals, are key to global action. (1)

The Paris Agreement

On December 12, 2015, the Paris Agreement was adopted at the UN Climate Change Conference (COP21). It represents a milestone in combating climate change and adapting to its effects, as it is recognized as binding by all states of the world (2)(3).

The Paris Agreement sets out long-term goals that represent a guideline for all nations:

  • Significant reduction in greenhouse gas emissions
    – Limiting the global temperature rise to well below 2°C above pre-industrial levels
    – Continue efforts to limit it to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels (2)
    – Limiting global warming to 1.5°C is only possible if greenhouse gas emissions peak by 2025 at the latest and fall by 43% by 2030 (3)
  • Evaluation of joint progress at regular intervals
  • Provision of financial resources for developing countries to
    – Mitigate climate change
    – Strengthen resilience
    – Improve the ability to adapt to climate impacts (2)

How it works

  • On a five-year cycle, countries are required to submit increasingly ambitious climate action plans, each known as a Nationally Determined Contribution (NDC) (2)
  • The NDCs serve as a document in which countries set out the measures they will take to reduce their greenhouse gas emissions in order to achieve the goals of the Paris Agreement, strengthen their resilience and adapt to the effects of climate change (3)

Mutual support between the countries

  • Funding
    – Industrialized countries are encouraged to provide financial support to countries with fewer resources
    – Support of voluntary contributions from other Parties
    – Need for substantial investments to significantly reduce emissions and adapt to the negative consequences of climate change
  • Technology
    – Development and transfer of technologies to improve resilience to climate change and reduce greenhouse gas emissions
    – Technology framework that accelerates the technology development and transfer mechanism through its policy and implementation arms
  • Capacity building
    – not all developing countries have sufficient capacity to address the challenges of climate change
    – Industrialized countries are called upon to increase support for climate-related capacity building measures in developing countries (3)

Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework

The Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework is a global agreement concluded in 2021 to counteract the ongoing loss of biodiversity and promote the conservation, restoration and sustainable use of biodiversity.

  • The fundamental importance of biodiversity for human well-being and a healthy planet has been recognized
  • food, medicine, energy, clean air and water, safety from natural disasters, recreation and cultural inspiration are all based on biodiversity
  • Guidance for global policy and action on biodiversity in the next decade
  • Stakeholders: governments, international organizations, civil society, indigenous peoples and local communities, the private sector and scientific and academic institutions
  • Call on the United Nations General Assembly to monitor progress in implementing the Framework (4)

17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)

The 17 Sustainable Development Goals form the heart of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, which was recognized by all member states of the United Nations in 2015.

  • common concept for peace and prosperity
  • Urgent call for action as part of a global partnership to all industrialized and developing countries
  • they state that the eradication of poverty and other disadvantages must go hand in hand with strategies to improve health and education, reduce inequality and boost economic growth
  • at the same time, climate change must be tackled and oceans and forests must be protected (5)

Figure 1 shows the each of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals individually.

Figure 1: 17 SDGs (5)

References

(1) European Environment Agency. (2023). Sustainability challenges. European Environment Agency. youmatter. Sustainability – What Is It? Definition, Principles and Examples. https://youmatter.world/en/definition/definitions-sustainability-definition-examples-principles/

(2) United Nations. (o. J.). The Paris Agreement. United Nations: Climate Action. https://www.un.org/en/climatechange/paris-agreement

(3) United Nations. (o. J.). The Paris Agreement. United Nations: Climate Change. https://unfccc.int/process-and-meetings/the-paris-agreement

(4) UN environment programme. (2022). Kunming-Montreal Global biodiversity framework. Convention On Biological Diversity. https://www.cbd.int/doc/c/e6d3/cd1d/daf663719a03902a9b116c34/cop-15-l-25-en.pdf

(5) United Nations. (o. J.). THE 17 GOALS | Sustainable Development. United Nations – Department of Economic and Social Affairs Sustainable Development. https://sdgs.un.org/goals

by mathilde.bogen -

04 | Cobblers

This weeks blogpost will be a bit shorter because of a big workload in other courses. In the upcoming weeks I want to continue to focus on cobblers and learn more about peoples habits when it comes to shoes and repair.

The term „cobbler“ describes a person who repairs shoes. It originates from the Old English word „cobelere,“ which means a mender of shoes. It is one of the worlds oldest professions and cobblers have been essential tradespeople for centuries, repairing and making shoes by hand (The Shoe Healer, n.d.). Many cobblers have specific skills related to working with leather. Fixing belts, handbags and other leather products has also become common work for cobblers.

With the industrialization of shoe manufacturing in the 19th and 20th centuries, the role of the cobbler evolved. While mass production reduced the need for handmade shoes, cobblers continued to provide repair services. They became skilled in repairing and maintaining footwear, extending the life of shoes and boots.

Today, although many shoes are mass-produced and disposable, there are still cobblers who offer repair services. Cobblers can repair soles, heels, and other parts of shoes, as well as perform more intricate tasks like stitching and reconditioning leather.

Photo from https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo/the-cobbler.html?blackwhite=1&sortBy=relevant
SURFSIDE, FL- NOVEMBER 18: Nicholas Cammarata works on repairing a shoe at Adams Shoe Service Shop November 18, 2008 in Surfside, Florida. Store owner Tina Cammarata say’s she has seen an uptick in people bringing shoes in for repair. As the economy continues to falter people are trying to save money by turning to repair shops instead of spending the extra money it might cost to replace a broken item. (Photo by Joe Raedle/Getty Images)

REPAIRING NOW VS. THEN

Alf Zumpano is a shoe repairer based in Regina, Canada. In a small video reportage Zumpano talks about how normal it was for people to repair their shoes in the late 20th century. In 1955 there were 46 shoe repairs in Regina where there were 80 000 people living at the time, and in 2014 there were three shoe repair businesses and approximately 240 000 inhabitants. In this period of time the population of the city has been tripled while the number of shoe repair businesses has been minimized with 43 (CBC News, 2020). What caused the change of behaviour? That is a question I will look further into the next week.

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REFERENCES

by leonie.dunke -

4 | Theatre in the digital time

Sustainability in Stage Design Production

As discussed in previous articles, the sustainable management of materials remains one of the paramount challenges in the realm of theater. In my ongoing research, I have delved deeper into stage design production. In this blog post and the upcoming one, I will elucidate how digitization can contribute to making this intricate process more sustainable. Initially, I will shed light on the course of stage design production and explore phases that hold the potential for digital support to enhance sustainability in the production.

Production Process

The creation of a stage design is exceptionally demanding, requiring meticulous planning and extensive coordination. Here is a brief overview of the creative design and production process of a stage design.

1. Preparation and Conceptualization:

  • The process commences with the director’s selection of the play in close collaboration with the theater management.
  • A detailed text analysis, conducted in collaboration with the stage and costume designer and the dramaturge, serves as the foundation for the design concept.
  • During this phase, the requirements of the theater production are discussed, encompassing the play, directorial concept, and other creative specifications.

2. Design Phase:

  • The stage designer develops sketches and concept drawings, which are discussed within the directorial team.
  • Experts such as lighting designers can be involved at this stage to further refine the design concept.

3. Modeling and Presentation:

  • Scale models are created to provide a better visualization of the stage design. These models are presented to the ensemble, and discussions with the technical staff ensue.
  • Based on the design, a budget for stage design production is established. The stage designer also selects suitable materials, taking aesthetics, functionality, and sustainability into account.

4. Coordination with the Technical Team:

  • The stage designer meets with the technical staff to present drawings and models. Technical drawings are created to guide the workshops in producing the set pieces.

5. Construction Rehearsal (Bauprobe):

  • A construction rehearsal is conducted on stage using improvised set pieces. Proportions, colors, lighting, and technical details are scrutinized. Any necessary changes are discussed with the ensemble.

6. Implementation Process:

  • The stage designer oversees the implementation process in the workshops, working closely with the stage manager, technical director, and workshop manager. Furniture and props are designed, selected, and manufactured.

7. Assembly and Setup on Stage:

  • Set pieces and costumes are assembled on stage. The stage designer gets the first glimpse of the finished elements in their designated places.

8. Lighting Rehearsal:

  • The stage designer develops an artistic lighting concept and implements it in a lighting rehearsal. Different lighting moods are tested, with expertise in lighting technology and color blending being crucial.

9. Stage Rehearsals and Fine-Tuning:

  • Stage rehearsals are conducted in the original set, with fine-tuning carried out in collaboration with actors, makeup artists, and costume workshops. Detailed adjustments may be made to costumes, lighting, and set design.

10. Premiere:

  • The inaugural performance of the new play takes place.

Conceptualization Phase / Model Building:

Model building for a stage design involves creating scale models that represent the planned stage design in a reduced form. These models serve as a visual reference for the directorial team, actors, and technical staff during the design and construction process.

Several aspects can play a role in terms of sustainability:

  1. Material Selection: The sustainable choice of model-building materials is crucial. Recycled or recyclable materials could be preferred. The use of environmentally friendly materials minimizes the ecological footprint.
  2. Reusability: If possible, models should be designed for reusability. This is particularly relevant when changes to the stage design are required or when the model can be utilized for future productions.
  3. Digital Models: The use of digital modeling techniques can also be more sustainable. By avoiding physical models made from various materials, resources can be conserved. Virtual models created in CAD programs also facilitate easier collaboration and communication within the team.
  4. Recycling: At the end of the process, physical models should be properly disposed of or recycled. Conscious disposal can ensure that the materials comply with prevailing environmental standards.

What is the Bauprobe?

The Construction Rehearsal, Bauprobe, is the most crucial day in the process of designing and producing a stage set for the stage designer. In the context of theater, a „Bauprobe“ refers to a phase during the preparation and planning of a theatrical production. During this phase, not only are the structural elements of the stage inspected, but also artistic and technical aspects of the stage design, lighting, sound equipment, and other technical elements are tested.

In terms of sustainability and material consumption in theater construction, the following points are relevant:

  1. Stage Design Materials: Stage design often requires the use of various materials such as wood, fabrics, paints, and other decorative elements. The Bauprobe provides an opportunity to examine alternative materials that are more sustainable and environmentally friendly.
  2. Lighting Technology: During the Bauprobe, the efficiency of lighting technology can be assessed. The use of energy-efficient bulbs and intelligent lighting systems can reduce both environmental impact and operating costs.
  3. Set Construction and Breakdown: Material consumption in the construction of stage sets and their recycling or reuse after the performance can be considered during the Bauprobe. This helps minimize the overall environmental footprint of the production.
  4. Transportation and Logistics: Sustainability aspects may also include the transportation and logistics of stage elements. Efficient route planning and the use of eco-friendly transportation can be discussed and optimized during the Bauprobe.
  5. Energy Efficiency: Both the energy efficiency of stage technology and other technical elements can be reviewed during the Bauprobe to minimize energy consumption.

However, the Bauprobe itself must also be designed within the framework of sustainability. Often, existing objects and sets are used to get a rough idea of the desired elements. Yet, the suitable piece is not always available in stock, and new parts must be manufactured. While these will eventually be used in the production, they often undergo changes after the Bauprobe. Material consumption occurs here even before the stage design is finalized.

Considering sustainability and material consumption during the conception and the Bauprobe in theater not only contributes to the eco-friendliness of the production but can also offer economic benefits and promote awareness of environmentally friendly practices in theater operations.

At the end of the posts, I would like to emphasize the guiding question that I aim to address in the next blog entry:
How can new digital technology support sustainable stage design production?

Ressourcen

by mathilde.bogen -

03 | Sustainability in major footwear brands

This week’s focus has been to research how some of the biggest footwear brands work with sustainability. Is sustainability prioritized? What actions do they take to become more sustainable? What materials do they use?

ADIDAS VS NIKE

Nike and Adidas are two of the largest footwear manufacturers in the world. Given the size, importance, and influence of these brands, their sustainability choices are crucial. The research paper, titled „Evaluation of Sustainability & Materials Among Major Footwear Brands“ discusses the sustainable focus and actions of these brands. Some of the actions and goals of the companies presented in the research paper will be presented in this text.

ADIDAS

Adidas‘ sustainability efforts started in 1998 when their environmental and social standards that suppliers must uphold were announced. They want to use products that can either be recycled, remade, or return to nature. Adidas has a goal* to eliminate the use of virgin polyester wherever possible by 2024 and achieve carbon neutrality across its entire supply chain by 2025.

NIKE

Nike has 10 main principles for circular design that all involve choosing materials that have a lower sustainable impact. There are several examples where the company has stopped the use of different gases in the production phase because they were harmful to both the human body and the environment. In 2002, Nike developed an environmentally friendly rubber that contains 96% fewer toxins by weight than the material they previously used.

FOOTWEAR DECONSTRUCTION

In the research paper, some shoes from Adidas and Nike were deconstructed, and the materials were examined. The main finding from the observation of the materials was that Nike uses fewer recycled materials in their shoes but incorporates them in more styles, compared to Adidas, which uses more recycled materials in each shoe but incorporates them in fewer styles.

Goal*

A company’s goals are just goals; it does not mean that the company actually achieves them. It is difficult to know how invested the companies are in achieving their goals and if the goals are realistic or if they are a way for the company to appear sustainable and get a more sustainable image.

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REFERENCES

Yanet Hernandez Perez, N. (2022, May 19). Evaluation of Sustainability & Materials Among Major Footwear Brands . https://scholarworks.calstate.edu/downloads/9z9035249

by ellen.dressler -

03 | Overview of existing European sustainability agreements and initiatives

To achieve its ambitious environmental and climate goals through a socially just transition, Europe needs to radically change production and consumption systems such as food, energy and mobility systems. As we currently consume too much and in an unsustainable way, the transition is difficult and requires strong coordination within the international community (1).

2050 long term strategy

In this regard, in 2018, the European Commission presented the 2050 long-term strategy.
It states that the EU is pursuing the goal of being climate-neutral by 2050 and that the transition to a climate-neutral society represents both an urgent challenge and an opportunity to create a better future for everyone.
To achieve this, all parts of our society and all sectors of the economy must play their part (2).

“As Europeans, we want to leave a healthier planet behind for those that follow. We obviously cannot turn a blind eye to the climate challenge; we must look to the future.”

Jean-Claude Juncker, State of Union address September 2018 (3)

Figure 1 illustrates the envisaged path to a climate-neutral economy.
In addition to the complete decarbonization of the energy supply in order to reduce dependence on suppliers from third countries, the mobility sector is also to be comprehensively reformed. The focus here is on alternative means of transport, automated driving in conjunction with electric vehicles and the use of alternative fuels.
In addition, energy consumption is to be almost cut in half between 2005 and 2050 and a modern and intelligent network infrastructure is to be created.
Furthermore, natural carbon sinks are to be created through the development of more sustainable agriculture and remaining CO2 emissions are to be compensated for by creating negative emissions.
In addition, the modernization of industry should be the focus of a fully circular economy (3).

Figure 1: Road to climate neutral economy (3)

The 2050 long-term strategy thus forms the backbone of the European Green Deal.

European Green Deal

he European Green Deal is a comprehensive political initiative of the European Union to tackle climate change and environmental challenges while promoting a fair and prosperous society. The initiative aims to transform the EU into a modern, resource-efficient and competitive economy with zero net emissions of greenhouse gases by 2050.
The European Green Deal also includes the following requirements:

  • Protection and improvement of the EU’s natural capital
  • Protection of the health and well-being of citizens from environmental risks
  • A just and inclusive transition that puts people at the center and takes into account the regions, sectors and employees that will face the greatest challenges (4) (see Figure 2).
Figure 2: The European Green Deal (4)

The objectives of the European Green Deal are also being implemented and supported as part of the EU’s 8th Environmental Action Program.

EU environment action programme to 2030

The long-term goal of the EU environment action program to 2030 is for all Europeans to live in a climate-neutral and healthy economy by 2050 at the latest. In this economy, there should be no waste, growth should be regenerative and inequalities should be significantly reduced.
Building on the European Green Deal, it aims to accelerate the transition to a climate-neutral, resource-efficient economy. It emphasizes that people’s well-being and prosperity depend on a healthy ecosystem.
The following are the six priority goals of the program:

  • Reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 2030 and achieve climate neutrality by 2050
  • Improve adaptability to climate change by strengthening resilience and reducing vulnerability to climate change
  • Transition to a regenerative growth model, decoupling economic growth from resource use and environmental degradation, while accelerating the transition to a circular economy
  • Zero pollution of air, water and soil and protection of the health and well-being of Europeans
  • Protecting, preserving and restoring biodiversity by improving the state of ecosystems and combating desertification and land degradation
  • Reducing the environmental and climate impact of production and consumption, particularly in the areas of energy, industrial development, buildings and infrastructure, mobility and food systems (5)

European Climate Pact

The European Climate Pact is part of the European Green Deal and aims to provide a vibrant space for the exchange of information, discussion and action on the climate crisis, as well as support for the growth of a European climate movement.
It offers people, communities and organizations the opportunity to participate in climate action across Europe, because the solutions outlined in the European Green Deal can only be successful if all people, communities and organizations are involved and take action.
Therefore it aims to make it easier to:

  • learn about climate change,
  • develop and implement solutions and
  • network with others and maximize the impact of these solutions.

It should also encourage Europeans who are willing to contribute in any way they can and reach those who have been less engaged so far.
Objectives:

  • Raise awareness of climate issues and EU action
  • Encourage climate action and promote engagement
  • Connect citizens and organizations working on climate and help them learn from each other (6)

To sum up, the European Union has a lot of goals aiming to create a more sustainable future for all. To be able to reach these, it is necessary that every individual, as well as every community, every organization and every company contributes their part.

References

(1) European Environment Agency. (2023). Sustainability challenges. European Environment Agency. youmatter. Sustainability – What Is It? Definition, Principles and Examples. https://youmatter.world/en/definition/definitions-sustainability-definition-examples-principles/

(2)European Commission. (o. J.). Climate Action: 2050 long-term strategy. European Commission. https://climate.ec.europa.eu/eu-action/climate-strategies-targets/2050-long-term-strategy_en#:~:text=The%20EU%20aims%20to%20be,action%20under%20the%20Paris%20Agreement%20.

(3) European Commission. (2018). Our Vision for A Clean Planet for All. https://climate.ec.europa.eu/system/files/2018-11/vision_1_emissions_en.pdf

(4) Publications Office of the European Union. (2020). Communication from the Commission—The European Green Deal. EUR-Lex. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/LSU/?uri=COM:2019:640:FIN

(5) Publications Office of the European Union. (2022). EU environment action programme to 2030. EUR-Lex. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/LSU/?uri=CELEX:32022D0591

(6)European Union. (o. J.). European Climate Pact. European Union. https://climate-pact.europa.eu/index_en

by leonie.dunke -

3 | Theatre in the digital time

Following my recent conversation with a set designer, the topic of sustainability in the theater takes center stage in my third blog post. Right from the beginning, I addressed the impacts of digitization on theater organization and introduced the concept of a cross-theater, potentially international, repository. The question of how digitization can contribute to making theater more sustainable serves as the starting point for this exploration.

Sustainable practices in the theater span various areas, from conception to execution. It’s not just about how a performance looks on stage but also about how it is crafted and how the entire production process is organized.

The primary challenge lies in responsibly sourcing and disposing of materials. However, it is precisely within this challenge that the opportunity arises to bring new creative and artistic ideas to the stage. In the upcoming sections, we will delve into various aspects of sustainability in the theater.

Sustainable Design 

The sustainable journey begins with the conception of productions. A collaborative effort is made to work on a vision for producing plays more sustainably. It is crucial to understand that the uniqueness of a set design does not necessarily require the construction or purchase of new elements. Sustainable design means intelligently using existing resources and ensuring meaningful reuse or proper recycling.

Model Construction:
In the design process, model construction plays a crucial role. The question arises whether materials can be recycled or if physical model construction can be entirely avoided through the use of CAD modeling and visualization.

Costume Design:
The integration of sustainable principles also extends to costume design. Visualizing costumes in 3D allows for testing different fabrics before making the actual purchase. Combining existing costume pieces or using innovative textiles represents steps toward sustainable production.

Planning and Communication 

The internal organization of theater operations plays a crucial role in sustainability. Effective communication and collaboration reduce working hours, optimize the budget, and create a smoother workflow. Long-term planning phases provide time for construction and material research, while regular discussions prevent unnecessary work and material waste.

The transport of sets and materials requires careful planning. Consolidating schedules, avoiding long travels, and increased use of online communication are steps in the right direction. A well-organized repository catalog reduces the need for frequent repository and material inspection appointments, while timely communication of developments helps minimize material consumption

Sustainable working demands a shift in work practices. It requires more time, leading to adjustments in schedules and budgets. A flexible workflow allows for the effective integration of sustainable decisions. A challenge that can be overcome through collaborative work and a shared commitment to sustainability.

New Tools and Processes

Processes for props, costumes, and set design must adhere to sustainable guidelines. Inventorying the material stock in-house creates transparency and helps avoid the purchase of inappropriate materials.

Conscious Use of Materials: Responsible Procurement and Usage
The primary challenge undoubtedly lies in the responsible handling of materials. Yet, it is precisely within this challenge that the opportunity arises to develop and bring new creative and artistic ideas to the stage.

The procedures for props, costumes, and set design must follow sustainable guidelines. A clear inventory of the material stock in-house creates transparency and avoids the purchase of unsuitable materials. The conscious use of materials also includes the reuse of props and costumes after the completion of a production. Constructions should be designed to be easily deconstructed and recycled.

Environmental Contributions: The Role of the Environment in Sustainability
Even in the conception phase, the avoidance of new materials in favor of recycling sources should be considered. Searching for materials in depots, thrift stores, or second-hand shops opens up sustainable possibilities. An organized and regularly updated repository particularly supports sustainability.

Material Source: The Origin and Afterlife of Materials
A material hierarchy considers the life before and after of each material. In the envisioned circular economy, certain materials can be excluded or considered for alternative uses. The question of the origin and fate of materials when no longer needed is central to sustainable decision-making. The following material hierarchy indicates how each material source affects sustainability.

„Die Kultur ist dafür prädestiniert, sich eine alternative Zukunft vorzustellen und mit dieser Vision zu experimentieren, den Status Quo in Frage zu stellen, die Welt anders zu sehen und die Zukunft mit dem Publikum und Mitwirkenden neu zu denken. Nur wenn die Kultur ihren Teil dazu beiträgt, dass sich die heutige und zukünftige Gesellschaft in Richtung einer nachhaltigeren Lebensweise entwickelt, wird dieser grundlegende Wandel gelingen.“
Creative Carbon Scotland, 2020

Institutions

Bund der Szenographen
GTKos

Ressources

  1. Dillon, Paddy (2022): Green Book; Deutsche Theatertechnische Gesellschaft 
  2. Maier, Florian (2022): Eindrücke vom 1. Forum für Theater und digitale Transformation 
  3. Die grüne Bühne
by mathilde.bogen -

02 | Footwear materials

The main focus this week has been to learn about the most common materials that shoes consist of.

Footwear are mostly made out of leather, textile and different synthetic materials (Smith, 2022). Approximately 40 materials are used in the manufacturing of shoes (Yanet Hernandez Perez, 2022). The combination between the cost of materials and the characteristics of a material is crucial when materials are chosen.

More than 60% of the emissions from the global footwear industry come from the manufacturing and raw material extraction. For the synthetic and textile shoes, the manufacturing stage represents the biggest area of the life cycle. For leather shoes, the raw material extraction and processing account for over 50% of their climate impact (Quantis, 2023).

Here is an overview over the material share of footwear:

LEATHER

Cow leather is the most common material that is used for making shoes. It lasts long and it is flexible. Leather is elastic and can be stretched, but it is also resistant to tearing. Leather is a relatively expensive material compared to other materials. Synthetic leather is also a pretty common material in the shoe industry, but it is usually less durable than real leather. Synthetic leather consists usually of a base textile covered with a plastic material.

TEXTILES

There are many different kind of textiles that can be used on a shoe, for example cotton, wool, nylon, polyester, polypropylene, rayon, lycra amongst others.

RUBBER

Rubber is used to make the sole of the shoes. Rubber reduces the risk of slips and helps to get a good grip. The material is durable and waterproof. Rubber is a natural product that is mainly harvested from the rubber tree that exists in some tropical countries.

FOAM

There are two kinds of foam that are used for the sole of the shoe – open cell foam and closed cell foam. The open cell foam is letting air and water free to enter and exit, while the closed cell foam is completely closed off from the environment not letting anything enter the material. Open cell foam is usually softer and closed cell foam is usually dense. Open cell foam is often used in the upper back of the shoe (by the heel) and in the tongue (the adjustable part behind the laces). Closed cell foam is usually used in the sole.

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REFERENCES

by ellen.dressler -

02 | Definition of the term sustainability

Before I delve deeper into the various aspects of my major research topic of sustainability, it is important to first clearly define the term.

Etymologically speaking, the word „sustainable“ is a compound of „sustain“ + „able“. „To sustain“ means „to support“, „to maintain“ or „to bear“.
„Sustainable“ therefore is an adjective for something that can be sustained, i.e. something that is „bearable“ and „can be continued at a certain level“. So essentially, sustainability can be seen as a process by which something is maintained at a certain level (1).

Whilst the composition of the word already provides information about the meaning of it, it is also useful to take a closer look at its definition.
I noticed, that people often have too narrow a definition of the term sustainability. Whilst the environmental part of it is usually immediately associated with the topic, the Brundtland report of the world commission on environment and development from 1987 emphasizes that sustainability is a multifaceted concept that, in addition to environmental considerations, also encompasses social and economic concerns (2).

Figure 1 clearly shows the relationships between these three sectors.

Figure 1: corelation of social, economic and environmental sustainability (3)

In the Brundtland report it is stated that „sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs“ (p.41) (2). This still remains the commonly agreed on definition of sustainable development.
The report also notes that „environmental and economic problems are linked to many social and political factors“ and that „new approaches must involve programs of social development, particularly to improve the position of women in society, to protect vulnerable groups, and to promote local participation in decision making“ (p. 37) (2).

Overall it is important to note that in recent times, due to global environmental and social challenges, the term „sustainability“ is often used in a way where it primarily refers to practices and measures taken to prevent the depletion of natural resources, so an ecological balance is uphold, ensuring that the quality of life isn’t compromised.
This understanding of sustainability encompasses various facets:

  • preventing overexploitation of resources,
  • optimizing manufacturing processes to reduce energy consumption and pollution,
  • reevaluating product consumption patterns,
  • influencing investment strategies,
  • modifying citizen lifestyles,
  • shaping consumer habits,
  • advancing technology
  • and implementing changes in business and institutional frameworks.

Actions are considered sustainable when they minimize or avoid harming the natural environment, driven by the belief that safeguarding ecosystems will secure the quality of life for present-day societies (1).

References

(1) youmatter. Sustainability – What Is It? Definition, Principles and Examples. https://youmatter.world/en/definition/definitions-sustainability-definition-examples-principles/

(2) World Commission on Environment and Development. (1987) Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development: Our Common Future. http://www.un-documents.net/our-common-future.pdf

(3) Prokopowicz D. (2020). IMPLEMENTATION OF THE PRINCIPLES OF SUSTAINABLE ECONOMY DEVELOPMENT AS A KEY ELEMENT OF THE PRO-ECOLOGICAL TRANSFORMATION OF THE ECONOMY TOWARDS GREEN ECONOMY AND CIRCULAR ECONOMY.DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0014.3558

by mathilde.bogen -

01 | Sustainability in the footwear industry

The footwear industry, a multi-billion U.S. dollar market, accounts for 1.4% of global emissions. This percentage equates to 700 million tons of CO2 (Smith, 2023).

I care about the environment and I try to live a sustainable life. I don’t eat meat, I recycle and I try to get most of my clothes from second hand stores. The awareness of sustainable fashion is growing in our society, but what about shoes? I personally don’t know what to do with my worn out shoes? I just assume that it is not possible to recycle them, so I throw them in the garbage. Every time I do that I feel guilty.

Only 5% of shoes get recycled and the rest end up in landfills. Most shoes are made out of several different materials which makes them difficult to recycle. 23 billion pairs of shoes are made every year and 22 billion are thrown into landfill (Dennis, 2022). How can there be an end to the overconsumption of shoes? How can there be a change in consumer behavior? And how can the life of shoes be extended?

LIFE CYCLE ASSESSMENT

More than 60% of the emissions from the industry comes from the manufacturing and the raw material extraction (Quantis, 2023). Finding alternative and more sustainable materials that can be recycled could be ways of improving the industry.

A report from FDRA (Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America) takes a look at the inside examining the footwear industry’s progress toward sustainability. It is based on a survey of footwear professionals across the industry in America. They were asked what they thought was the biggest problem regarding sustainability in the industry. Many of the contestants meant that the biggest challenge was the lack of framework to follow. They said that they don’t work together as an industry to solve the problem. They talk a lot about sustainability, but there is no action and concrete examples on how the industry can become more sustainable.

APPROACHES

The two main approaches to this topic are to either focus on the industry or the consumer.

The industry – design for industry change

  • Most shoes are not recyclable and it could therefore be interesting to look into different materials and their opportunities. Most shoe brands have one collection of sustainable shoes that are recyclable. Sustainability is trendy, and it is for that reason important to create a sustainable image, but why do they not make sustainability a higher priority?
  • There is clearly a lack of framework in the industry. Creating a realistic framework that applies to the whole industry could be a way of making it easier for the companies to become more sustainable.

The consumer – design for behavior change

  • The cobbler is an old profession and can in some ways seem like it is stuck in the past. However, by rebranding and modernizing the shoe repair business, it could become more trendy to have shoes repaired. This approach would extend the lifespan of shoes and reduce the number of new shoes purchased.
  • An awareness campaign can inform people about the footprint of the footwear industry and encourage people to make more sustainable choices.

THE ROAD AHEAD

In the upcoming phase I intend to continue focusing on both the production of shoes and consumer behavior. I will look into:

  • The different materials shoes are made of and see if there are any possibilities there
  • Recyclable shoes. What makes them recyclable and why do they not make more of them? 
  • The shoe repair business. Are many people using this service? How can it be modernized? Rebranding?
  • Consumer habits. Why do people buy shoes? 
  • Shoes and identity

I want to talk to a shoe repairer to get to know that business, but there might be a challenge to find someone that is willing to speak with me. I would also like to make a survey to get a better understanding of the consumer behaviors, but there might be a challenge to get enough responses to see any tendencies. Another challenge that I have already faced is finding the right articles online and finding the ones that are free.

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REFERENCES

  • Smith, P. (n.d.). Global footwear market. Statista. (2023, August 31) https://www.statista.com/topics/4571/global-footwear-market/#editorsPicks 
  • Measuring fashion: Insights from the environmental impact of the global apparel and Footwear Industries. Quantis. (2023, September 27). https://quantis.com/report/measuring-fashion-report/ 
  • Dennis, P. (2022, December 30). Shoe waste: How consumption became culture. Circular Online. https://www.circularonline.co.uk/features/circular-trainers-how-consumption-became-culture/