by helene.goedl -

26 | Digital Fashion – The Decline of Quality: Fast Fashion’s Unsustainable Legacy

My previous blog entries have been concerned with discussing digital fashion with one of the main concerns being the absence of materiality. I described how materiality is a central component in the fashion design process and that materiality also helps us connect to clothes through the sensory experience. In connection to this, I want to discuss a related issue which has plagued the fashion industry in recent decades: the decline of fabric and garment production quality. This exploration aims to investigate if materiality is generally on the decline as a determining factor in fashion design today, or if the increasing loss of quality is a phenomenon limited to the fast fashion side of the industry.

In recent years, the fashion industry has undergone a significant transformation, with the rise of fast fashion dramatically altering the landscape of clothing production and consumption. This shift has not only changed how we shop but has also had a profound impact on the quality of fabrics used in our garments. The decline in fabric quality, largely attributed to the fast fashion model, has far-reaching consequences for both consumers and the environment.

Fast fashion refers to the rapid production of inexpensive, trendy clothing designed to be worn only a few times before being discarded. This model prioritises speed and cost over quality, resulting in garments that are often made from lower-grade materials and with less attention to craftsmanship1.

The fast fashion industry has experienced significant growth, with revenue showing an upward trend since 2021 after a brief decline during the COVID-19 pandemic2. This resurgence, however, comes at a cost to fabric quality and environmental sustainability.

One of the most notable changes in fabric quality is the increased use of synthetic fibres. Fast fashion brands often rely heavily on materials like polyester, acrylic, and nylon, which are derived from fossil fuels. These synthetic fabrics are chosen for their low cost and ease of production, but they come with significant environmental drawbacks, such as non-biodegradability. Synthetic fibres can take hundreds of years to decompose, contributing to long-term pollution.

When washed, synthetic clothing releases microfibres that escape filtration systems and end up in waterways, harming aquatic ecosystems. Apart from these environmental concerns, synthetic fibres also feel different on the body than natural fibres, with their characteristics often being described as less comfortable and of lower quality. 

The emphasis on rapid production and low costs for fabrics has also led to a decline in the overall quality of garment construction. Fast fashion items often feature inferior stitching techniques, making them more prone to tears and loose threads3. The rush to meet high consumer demand results in less thorough quality control, leading to more defects in finished products3. This decline in craftsmanship not only affects the longevity of clothing but also contributes to the devaluation of traditional textile skills and artisanal practices4.

The deterioration in fabric quality has had a ripple effect on the second-hand clothing market. Traditionally, second-hand stores have played a crucial role in extending the lifecycle of garments. However, the influx of poorly made fast fashion items is undermining this sector:

Many fast fashion garments are of such poor quality that they cannot be resold after just a few uses3. Clothes made from low-quality materials often fall apart after minimal wear, making them unsuitable for resale3. This trend is particularly concerning as it hampers efforts to create a more circular and sustainable fashion economy.

The decline in fabric quality, driven by fast fashion, has severe environmental implications:

The short lifespan of fast fashion items leads to millions of tons of textile waste in landfills annually4. The constant production of new, low-quality garments also requires continuous extraction of raw materials and energy resources. Moreover, the fast fashion model often relies on exploitative labor practices in developing countries, where workers face harsh conditions and minimal pay to meet the demands of rapid production3.

Research supports the observed decline in fabric quality. A study published in the Journal of Cleaner Production found that the average lifespan of clothing items has decreased significantly over the past two decades, correlating with the rise of fast fashion1. The study also noted a marked increase in the use of synthetic fibres, which now dominate the textile market due to their low cost and ease of production. Another scientific investigation, published in Environmental Science & Technology, revealed that synthetic microfibres from clothing are a major source of microplastic pollution in aquatic environments5. This research underscores the environmental impact of low-quality, synthetic fabrics commonly used in fast fashion.

While the current state of fabric quality in the fast fashion industry is concerning, there are signs of positive change: Consumers are becoming increasingly conscious of the environmental and social impacts of their clothing choices6. Some brands are exploring more eco-friendly materials and production methods, including organic and recycled cotton. There’s a growing movement towards investing in higher-quality, longer-lasting garments as an alternative to fast fashion.

The decline in fabric quality, largely driven by the fast fashion industry, has significant implications for consumers, the environment, and the future of the fashion industry. Developments analysed in this post suggest that materiality has been on the decline as a deciding factor for consumer behaviour in recent decades, at least in the fast fashion market. But the decline in quality has reached all segments of the fashion industry and is therefore a more general concern in fashion. However, more recent developments towards awareness of the advantages of natural and higher quality materials in consumers might indicate a change in the tides.

1 Yu, Gomez-Borquez, and Zaichkowsky, “Mitigating Trendy Cheap Fast Fashion’s Negative Impact.”
2 Dai, “The Fast Fashion Industry in the Post-Pandemic.”
3 “Fast Fashion Causes Decline in Quality Second-Hand Clothes.”
4 Jovells, “Why Is Fast Fashion Bad? Beyond the Price Tag.”
5 Ruiz, “47 Official Sustainable Fashion Statistics 2025.”
6 Güven and Yakın, “Fashion Consumption Behaviors of Sustainability Consumers: Fast Fashion or Slow Fashion?”

Sources: 

Dai, Yukun. “The Fast Fashion Industry in the Post-pandemic.” BCP Business & Management 38 (March 2, 2023): 598–603. https://doi.org/10.54691/bcpbm.v38i.3745.

Güven, Hüseyin, and Volkan Yakın. “Fashion Consumption Behaviors of Sustainability Consumers: Fast Fashion or Slow Fashion?” Journal of Human Sciences 20, no. 4 (October 21, 2023): 596–610. https://doi.org/10.14687/jhs.v20i4.6424.

Jovells, Salva. “Why Is Fast Fashion Bad? Beyond the Price Tag.” Sumissura (blog),  February 6, 2025. https://www.sumissura.com/en/blog/why-is-fast-fashion-bad.

Ruiz, Arabella. “47 Official Sustainable Fashion Statistics 2025.” TheRoundup, March 18, 2024. https://theroundup.org/sustainable-fashion-statistics/.

Winssolutions. “Fast Fashion Causes Decline in Quality Second-hand Clothes,” December 20, 2024. Accessed February 28, 2025. https://www.winssolutions.org/fast-fashion-triggers-troubling-decline-in-quality-of-second-hand-clothing/.

Yu, Yunzhijun, Claudia L. Gomez-Borquez, and Judith Lynne Zaichkowsky. “Mitigating Trendy Cheap Fast Fashion’s Negative Impact.” Journal of Sustainable Marketing, September 28, 2023, 1–21. https://doi.org/10.51300/jsm-2023-108.

by lea.haas -

Episode #5 from the series: New things I learned this semester – HDRs

HDRs, or High Dynamic Range images, are a special kind of image that can capture a wider range of light and dark details than regular images. Imagine taking a photo where you can see the bright sky and the dark shadows under a tree without losing detail in either area—that’s what HDR can do. These images are especially useful in 3D modeling and animation in programs like Blender because they can create very realistic lighting and reflections.

An HDR image is made by combining several photos of the same scene taken at different exposures. This means you take some photos that are very bright, some that are very dark, and some in between. When you merge these photos together, you get an image that captures the best details from all the different exposures, resulting in a picture that looks much more like what your eyes see in real life.

Creating HDRs for Blender

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how you can create HDR images for Blender:

  1. Take the Photos:
    • Set Up Your Camera: Use a camera that allows you to take multiple shots with different exposure settings. A tripod is essential to keep the camera steady and ensure all the photos align perfectly.
    • Bracket Your Shots: Capture a series of photos, usually between 3 to 7, ranging from very underexposed (dark) to very overexposed (bright). This gives you the full range of light and shadow in the scene.
  2. Merge the Photos into an HDR Image:
    • Use HDR Software: Programs like Adobe Photoshop, Photomatix, or Luminance HDR can merge your bracketed photos into a single HDR image.
    • Align and Merge: Load your photos into the software, align them if necessary, and let the software merge them. You’ll get an image that keeps the details from all exposures.
    • Fine-Tune the Image: Adjust the tone mapping, contrast, and other settings in the software to make sure your HDR image looks natural and detailed.
  3. Save the HDR Image:
    • Choose the Right Format: Save your HDR image in a format that Blender supports, such as .hdr or .exr. These formats keep all the high dynamic range data intact.
  4. Use HDRs in Blender:
    • Open Blender: Go to the Shading workspace.
    • Add Environment Texture: In the World tab, add an Environment Texture node (Add > Texture > Environment Texture).
    • Load Your HDR: Connect the Environment Texture node to the Background node, click “Open,” and load your saved HDR image.
    • Adjust Settings: Play around with the strength and orientation to get the lighting just right in your scene.

Using HDR images in Blender can make a big difference in how realistic and vibrant your 3D scenes look. They provide rich lighting details that can bring your models to life, making them appear more dynamic and true-to-life.

by antonia.muszi -

Nature Film Director – Loui Psihoyos

Loui Psihoyos is an American photographer and documentary filmmaker, best known for his work on environmental and conservation issues.

Some facts about him:

  1. Early Life: Psihoyos was born in Dubuque, Iowa, on February 23, 1957. He grew up with a passion for photography and nature, which would later shape his career.
  2. Photography Career: Psihoyos began his career as a still photographer, working for notable publications such as National Geographic and Smithsonian. His work often focused on nature, wildlife, and environmental issues.
  3. Documentary Filmmaking: Psihoyos transitioned into filmmaking, using his visual storytelling skills to shed light on pressing environmental issues. His most famous work is the documentary film „The Cove.“
  4. The Cove: „The Cove“ (2009) is a documentary, which exposes the annual dolphin hunt that takes place in Taiji, Japan. The film follows activists, including former dolphin trainer Ric O’Barry, as they uncover and attempt to expose the brutal practices of the dolphin hunting industry. „The Cove“ won numerous awards, including the Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature in 2010.
  5. Impact: „The Cove“ had a significant impact, raising awareness about the issue of dolphin hunting and sparking international outrage. It led to increased scrutiny of the practice and efforts to halt it.
  6. Other Projects: In addition to „The Cove,“ Psihoyos has been involved in other documentary projects focused on environmental themes. For example, he directed „Racing Extinction“ (2015), which addresses the ongoing mass extinction of species due to human activity. His most recent project is the Netflix documentary „You Are What You Eat: A Twin Experiment“ (2024).
  7. Environmental Activism: Psihoyos is actively involved in environmental activism and uses his films as a platform to advocate for conservation and sustainability.
  8. Organization: Psihoyos is a co-founder of the Oceanic Preservation Society (OPS), a non-profit organization dedicated to raising awareness about environmental issues through film, photography, and other forms of media.

Louie Psihoyos is a prominent figure in the world of environmental documentary filmmaking, using his skills as a photographer and filmmaker to raise awareness and inspire action on pressing conservation issues. A role model for sure.

by ellen.dressler -

02 | Definition of the term sustainability

Before I delve deeper into the various aspects of my major research topic of sustainability, it is important to first clearly define the term.

Etymologically speaking, the word „sustainable“ is a compound of „sustain“ + „able“. „To sustain“ means „to support“, „to maintain“ or „to bear“.
„Sustainable“ therefore is an adjective for something that can be sustained, i.e. something that is „bearable“ and „can be continued at a certain level“. So essentially, sustainability can be seen as a process by which something is maintained at a certain level (1).

Whilst the composition of the word already provides information about the meaning of it, it is also useful to take a closer look at its definition.
I noticed, that people often have too narrow a definition of the term sustainability. Whilst the environmental part of it is usually immediately associated with the topic, the Brundtland report of the world commission on environment and development from 1987 emphasizes that sustainability is a multifaceted concept that, in addition to environmental considerations, also encompasses social and economic concerns (2).

Figure 1 clearly shows the relationships between these three sectors.

Figure 1: corelation of social, economic and environmental sustainability (3)

In the Brundtland report it is stated that „sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs“ (p.41) (2). This still remains the commonly agreed on definition of sustainable development.
The report also notes that „environmental and economic problems are linked to many social and political factors“ and that „new approaches must involve programs of social development, particularly to improve the position of women in society, to protect vulnerable groups, and to promote local participation in decision making“ (p. 37) (2).

Overall it is important to note that in recent times, due to global environmental and social challenges, the term „sustainability“ is often used in a way where it primarily refers to practices and measures taken to prevent the depletion of natural resources, so an ecological balance is uphold, ensuring that the quality of life isn’t compromised.
This understanding of sustainability encompasses various facets:

  • preventing overexploitation of resources,
  • optimizing manufacturing processes to reduce energy consumption and pollution,
  • reevaluating product consumption patterns,
  • influencing investment strategies,
  • modifying citizen lifestyles,
  • shaping consumer habits,
  • advancing technology
  • and implementing changes in business and institutional frameworks.

Actions are considered sustainable when they minimize or avoid harming the natural environment, driven by the belief that safeguarding ecosystems will secure the quality of life for present-day societies (1).

References

(1) youmatter. Sustainability – What Is It? Definition, Principles and Examples. https://youmatter.world/en/definition/definitions-sustainability-definition-examples-principles/

(2) World Commission on Environment and Development. (1987) Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development: Our Common Future. http://www.un-documents.net/our-common-future.pdf

(3) Prokopowicz D. (2020). IMPLEMENTATION OF THE PRINCIPLES OF SUSTAINABLE ECONOMY DEVELOPMENT AS A KEY ELEMENT OF THE PRO-ECOLOGICAL TRANSFORMATION OF THE ECONOMY TOWARDS GREEN ECONOMY AND CIRCULAR ECONOMY.DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0014.3558

by ellen.dressler -

01 | Sustainability

Sustainability has become one of the central topics of our society. Regarding this topic, we face a multitude of challenges and issues that urgently need to be addressed in order to create a more sustainable future for all.

In recent years, my awareness of sustainability and our environment has become increasingly bigger. Therefore, I’m trying to make environmentally friendly decisions as often as possible. I don’t eat meat, I try to buy my clothes second hand or from sustainable brands, I recycle and try to avoid unnecessary packaging. At the same time, however, I noticed that many people are not sufficiently aware of the sustainability problems we face or do not know how they can make their contribution. Therefore, it is important to create more awareness for this issue and to provide offers that make it as easy as possible to see how each individual can do their part for a more sustainable society and motivate them to do so.

Existing projects

Clearly there are already existing a lot of projects and initiatives that are aiming to motivate people to do something good for the environment.
One well-known concept for avoiding conventional packaging waste is „zero waste stores“. These exist in many Austrian cities and are an alternative to conventional supermarkets. Food is available here unpackaged, from food dispensers and for filling into containers you bring yourself.
In addition to that, usually also other reusable or recyclable products are on offer (1).

Another renowned initiative to draw attention to the urgency of climate and nature conservation is the WWF’s Earth Hour. Every year, for one hour on the last Saturday in March, the lights are switched off collectively to draw attention to the urgency of nature and climate protection. Launched in 2007 by WWF Australia, this global campaign is intended to send a strong signal to international decision-makers to do justice to their responsibility to protect our nature and habitats (2).

© WWF France

Besides major climate protection campaigns like this one, interactive elements, gamification and personalized approaches can actively engage users in the learning process and motivate them to implement sustainable measures. It can create higher engagement and increase the likelihood that people will make lasting changes in their behavior (3).

There is a variety of media and technologies, that could be used to convey information, including interactive graphics, videos, apps, virtual or augmented reality and more. This provides multiple opportunities to present the topic of sustainability in engaging ways.

To be able to do so, it is crucial to answer some fundamental questions.

Central research-topics and upcoming steps

Since „sustainability“ is a very broad field, the research will also be very open at the beginning. The aim is to create as broad a pool of knowledge as possible on the topic.

The following questions will need to be addressed:

  • How is sustainability in general defined?
  • What are the problems in communicating the topic within different target groups?
    – Which subtopics need to be communicated better?
    – Does it make sense to focus on a specific area of the topic sustainability?
  • How can individuals integrate more sustainability into their lives?
  • What are the most effective methods for presenting information on sustainability in an engaging and interactive way?
  • How has knowledge transfer on the topic of sustainability already been implemented in the past?
    – What kind of actions, apps, challenges or other interactive approaches have already been implemented in this regard and what can I learn from them?
    – Which companies were involved in this?
  • What specific topics and subtopics should be covered?
  • What levers do you need to pull to get people to change their habits?
    – Do we need new approaches on how to engage people in making more sustainable choices?
    – Is it possible to just impart knowledge on the topic in an interactive and engaging way to get the desired results?

Expected challenges

With all the questions that need to be answered, there also come along some challenging parts of the research.
Since sustainability is a very broad and complex topic that encompasses various aspects such as environmental, social and economic, it could be challenging to find a clear focus for the research.
Besides that, technology and tools in interaction design are evolving rapidly, so it might be difficult to find current and relevant information that reflects the latest developments.
Furthermore it might become challenging to talk to people who have a deeper insight into certain topics to find out more about them first-hand.

Overall it is to be said, that interactivity allows for a creative and effective approach to raising awareness about sustainability and encouraging people to make more sustainable choices. It helps bridge the gap between knowledge and action.

Relevant institutions

European environment agency: https://www.eea.europa.eu/en
Umweltbundesamt Austria: https://www.umweltbundesamt.at/
European Commision – Education Area: https://education.ec.europa.eu/de

References

(1) Zero Waste Austria. Zero Waste Shops – Unverpackt einkaufen in Österreich. https://www.zerowasteaustria.at/zero-waste-shops.html
(2) WWF Österreich. WWF EARTH HOUR 2023. https://www.wwf.at/earthhour/
(3) Alsawaier, R. (2017). The effect of gamification on motivation and engagement. 10.1108/IJILT-02-2017-0009