Through an additional course in the first semester of my master’s program, I came across a fascinating podcast that delves into the production of historical costumes in theatre and the origin of the materials used.
Having primarily focused on digital support in stage design production in recent weeks, I now wish to shift the spotlight in this blog post to another area of theatre: costume design. In doing so, I aim to share the insights and information I gained through the mentioned podcast.
Introduction
Costumes are not mere garments; rather, they express stories, transform actors into unique roles, and are as essential to a theatre production as the stage design. They unveil the personalities of the characters and their development throughout the story. The creation of a costume involves careful steps, coordination, and the harmonious collaboration of numerous professionals. The following information poster provides fascinating insights into the process of costume design and focuses on the management and origin of the materials used.
Involved Individuals:
Costume Department: 120 People Production: Milliners, Cobblers, Tailoring Teaching Workshop Procurement Fabric Storage Costume Stock Costume Assistance Production Management Dressers
Costume Creation Process
Script Analysis:
The initiation of a new costume design begins with the selection of a play by the artistic director and the dramaturge. Subsequently, a director is chosen, who makes decisions between costume design and stage design. The directorial team, consisting of these three key players, then develops the concept for the play. At this point, the costume designer has the opportunity to develop costume designs in close or broad collaboration with the director.
Design and Development:
The starting point for the development of a costume idea is an in-depth analysis of the script. It is crucial that all characters are appropriately dressed, and initial ideas must be captured in costume sketches. The goal is to create a coherent costume dramaturgy that visually influences the production. After extensive studies of milieu and eras, the costume designer creates sketches, figurines, collects inspirational material, and creates mood boards. These serve later as visual aids for the director as well as the scenes and makeup artists. In joint discussions, artistic intentions are aligned, and potential costs are calculated. After this phase, the costume concept is reviewed and further developed.
In the development phase, there is room for interpretation as the costume designer explains the character and allows for various interpretations and designs. This profession requires a solid understanding of garment construction techniques. The costume designer must empathize with the costumes to understand how tailors developed historical costumes without concrete references. Alongside pattern making, detailed discussions follow, including the search and procurement of materials.
Production:
Although the costume designer does not sew, they take the necessary measurements of the actors and create patterns. In addition to artistic direction, other professionals such as costume supervisors, cutters, tailors, milliners, or armorers are involved in the creative process. The costume designer organizes the required costumes and accessories according to artistic specifications and within the budget allocated for costumes. They oversee the production as well as all fittings.
Staging:
During performances, dressers mainly take care of the artists, managing costume changes behind the scenes and making last-minute adjustments.
Storage:
After the production concludes, proper storage of all costumes in the stock is necessary to use them for other productions.
Where Does the Material Come From?
Garments possess a distinct characteristic and design language that has evolved significantly over time. In theater, these essential components must be reproduced according to each production’s requirements. The challenge lies in finding original fabrics and unique pieces that genuinely date back to the respective historical period.
Custom-Made Fabrics
Often, the fabric desired by the costume designer must be specially produced or purchased. Custom-made fabrics are labor-intensive and less sustainable.
Costume Stock (Fundus)
A solution to this problem is provided by material and costume storage. Already crafted costumes are stored here, allowing them to be reused in subsequent productions and potentially adjusted to fit the requirements of each new play.
Donations
Theaters also accept donations from individuals. Discarded but well-preserved garments from past decades are valued since they preserve both the fabric and the character of each individual piece.
Conclusion
For flexible collaboration and efficient production in a short period, early planning is of paramount importance. Smooth internal, cross-departmental communication is essential. Production and artistic teams require sufficient time to immerse themselves in the play and develop the concept with high quality. This becomes especially crucial when opting for Fundus costumes or producing custom-made items due to sustainability considerations.
Ressources