Throughout history, clothing has played a pivotal role in shaping society, reflecting cultural values, social hierarchies, and technological advancements. This blog entry explores some of the most significant developments in the societal role of clothing, highlighting how garments have evolved from mere protective coverings to powerful symbols of identity, status, and cultural expression.
Clothing has developed from a necessity to a social signifier. In its earliest form, clothing served primarily as protection against the elements. However, as human societies developed, so did the functions of clothing. One of the most important shifts was the emergence of clothing as a social signifier. During the long eighteenth century, for instance, textiles became crucial in defining gender, rank, and race in the context of British imperial expansion1. The emphasis on whiteness in both skin and cloth symbolised social status and racial hierarchy, with pristine garments representing social „whiteness“1.
This period saw the rise of opulent societal lifestyles among the elite, characterised by events such as masquerade balls, which further reinforced social hierarchies and the imperial ethos of race1. The maintenance of these pristine garments, largely performed by low-ranked and racialised women, underscored the intersectionality of class, race, and gender in clothing’s societal role1.
Garments have also shaped our cultural identity in the form of traditional garments. As societies became more complex, traditional clothing emerged as a powerful reflection of cultural identity. Garments like the Japanese kimono, Indian sari, and Jordanian thobe came to embody the history, values, and craftsmanship of their respective communities2. These traditional clothes were not just aesthetic choices but served as visual representations of cultural heritage and social identity. The significance of traditional attire extends beyond mere appearance. These garments are often influenced by environmental conditions, historical events, and societal practices2. For instance, in Kenya, self-adornment plays a crucial role in ensuring the continuity of political, socio-cultural, and ethno-moral principles of communities3. Whether through permanent marks like tattoos or temporary decorations like makeup and clothing, adornment serves as a way of signalling an individual’s place in society, marking special moments, or celebrating life transitions3. Similar uses of fashion are documented in cultures across the world.
Fashion could also be used as a tool of oppression as well as liberation. The relationship between fashion and societal power structures, particularly in the context of gender, has been a significant aspect of clothing’s role throughout history. Fashion has often been considered a mechanism of oppression, with restrictive garments physically and metaphorically constraining women to fit into narrow, idealised standards of beauty dictated by patriarchal societies4. However, the feminist movement has actively challenged and rejected these restrictive garments, defying norms and advocating for women’s autonomy in clothing choices4. This shift represents a crucial development in the societal role of clothing, transforming it from a tool of oppression to a means of empowerment and self-expression.
In modern times, the advent of globalisation has had a profound impact on the role of clothing in society. While traditional garments continue to hold cultural significance, they are increasingly influenced by modern fashion trends2. This intersection of tradition and modernity has led to new forms of cultural expression through clothing, often blending elements from different cultures. Moreover, the rise of fast fashion and mass production has democratised access to trendy clothing but has also raised concerns about sustainability and ethical production practices. In response, there has been a growing interest in sustainable and circular fashion, with initiatives like recycling clothing waste gaining traction5.
A fascinating recent development in our understanding of clothing’s societal role is its impact on the human microbiome, particularly that of the skin. Despite our long history with clothing, little was known about this interaction until recently6. Research in this area has opened up new perspectives on the relationship between clothing and human health, potentially influencing future textile development and hygiene practices.
The societal role of clothing has undergone significant transformations throughout history. From its origins as basic protection to its current status as a complex system of cultural signifiers, fashion trends, and even microbial ecosystems, clothing continues to evolve alongside human society. As we move forward, the challenge lies in balancing the cultural significance of traditional garments with the demands of modern life and sustainability concerns.
The study of clothing’s role in society offers valuable insights into human culture, social structures, and technological progress. As we continue to explore this rich field, we gain a deeper understanding of how something as seemingly simple as the clothes we wear can profoundly shape our interactions, identities, and the very fabric of our societies. The short cross-section of these developments of course have implications for the extended and transformed societal roles digital fashion might take on in the future.
1 Lemire, “Empire and the Fashioning of Whiteness: Im/Material Culture in the British Atlantic World, C. 1660–1820.”
2 Shurman and Qaqish, “Traditional Clothes Around the World: A Cultural Reflection.
3 Nyambura, “Celebrating Adornment in Kenya’s Diverse Cultures.”
4 Jamal and Mohammed, “Fashion and Feminism: A Theoretical and Historical Background.”
5 Hamdan, “A Survey of the Role of Charity Societies in Recycling Clothing Waste and the Extent of Their Societal Impact in Saudi Arabia.”
6 Sanders, Grunden, and Dunn, “A Review of Clothing Microbiology: The History of Clothing and the Role of Microbes in Textiles.”
Sources:
Hamdan, Najla Ibrahim Bin. “A Survey of the Role of Charity Societies in Recycling Clothing Waste and the Extent of Their Societal Impact in Saudi Arabia.” Sustainability 15, no. 14 (July 21, 2023): 11380. https://doi.org/10.3390/su151411380.
Jamal, Fatima Salah, and Awfa Hussein Mohammed. “Fashion and Feminism: A Theoretical and Historical Background.” Journal of Tikrit University for Humanities 30, no. 12, 2 (December 30, 2023): 90–114. https://doi.org/10.25130/jtuh.30.12.2.2023.14.
Lemire, Beverly. “Empire and the Fashioning of Whiteness: Im/Material Culture in the British Atlantic World, C. 1660–1820.” The Journal of Interdisciplinary History 55, no. 1 (January 1, 2024): 57–87. https://doi.org/10.1162/jinh_a_02032.
Nyambura, Ruth, Tom Nyamache and Peter Ndirangu Waweru. “Celebrating Adornment in Kenya’s Diverse Cultures.” (2013).
Sanders, Deaja, Amy Grunden, and Robert R. Dunn. “A Review of Clothing Microbiology: The History of Clothing and the Role of Microbes in Textiles.” Biology Letters 17, no. 1 (January 1, 2021). https://doi.org/10.1098/rsbl.2020.0700.
Shurman, Ali, and Raed Qaqish. “Traditional Clothes Around the World: A Cultural Reflection.” IOSR Journal of Humanities and Social Science 29, no. 12 (December 1, 2024): 01–04. https://doi.org/10.9790/0837-2912020104.
