The relationship between the human body and fashion design is complex and multifaceted, with designers increasingly recognizing the importance of considering the dynamic nature of the body and the wearer’s experience. This shift in perspective is reshaping the approach to fashion design and our relationship with clothes. In the context of digital fashion design, the elements of the body, our relationship to clothes and the aspect of tangibility in experiencing fashion needs to be reevaluated and reimagined. In the following blogpost, I will discuss some ideas surrounding these concepts and point out how they might be explored further within the field of digital fashion design.
The Dynamic Body in Fashion Design
Fashion design is deeply connected to the human body and our ever-evolving societal understanding of it. In the past, fashion was often designed with a more static concept of the body in mind. But our ideals and standards around bodily expression are evolving to consider the body as a dynamic entity rather than a static form. Traditionally, garment patterns have been designed for a stationary, upright posture, which can lead to discomfort when the body is in motion1. To address this, researchers are developing new methodologies that incorporate the body’s various movements into the design process. For instance, a study conducted in 2024 created a mannequin that combines daily body motions, leading to the development of ‚distorted‘ block patterns that better conform to the mobile human form1. This study is only one instance of how considerations about the body are continuing to influence the fashion design process. In digital space however, the body becomes a more fluent concept and might even be completely excluded as a factor. But the question this brings is whether the absence of a body to dress would be a disqualifier for calling digital fashion “fashion” in the first place, or whether we would have to treat it as a new design discipline.
Embodied Empathy in Fashion
Apart from mere practical considerations of the aspect of movement, the concept of embodied empathy is gaining traction in fashion design. This approach emphasizes sensitivity to the wearer’s physical experiences, shifting the focus from mere appearances to supporting bodily comportments2. By adopting this perspective, designers can create garments that not only look good but also feel comfortable and enable natural movement. Again, this demonstrates an aspect of fashion design that becomes virtually irrelevant in digital spaces. The concept of “comfort” for digital bodies evokes considerations about the conditions of the digital body and whether or not we can attribute any sort of conditions to them.
Bio-segmentation and Inclusive Design
Fashion is moving away from binary gender-based designs towards a more inclusive approach based on bio-segmentation. This method considers body somatotypes (ectomorph, mesomorph, and endomorph) and biotypes as the foundation for design, rather than traditional gender categories3. This shift allows for more inclusive and diverse fashion offerings that cater to a wider range of body types. Similar to the above design concepts relating to the body, this is another example of where the transition to digital spaces and the possibility for removing the body as a factor altogether could unlock potential for the field of fashion design.
The Importance of Materiality
Despite technological advancements, the tangible aspect of fashion remains crucial. The physical interaction between fabric and skin, the drape and feel of a garment, and the way it moves with the body are all essential elements of the fashion experience. Researchers are working on creating comprehensive databases that include physical textile samples, 3D human body models, and 3D garment designs to bridge the gap between digital and physical fashion4. While this is an interesting development when it comes to simulating and representing the general behaviour and movement of material in digital space, it still lacks the important quality of tangibility. Digital clothing can never produce the sensation of textiles on the human body and therefore are bound to lack a very important feature in the way that we experience fashion.
The fashion industry is increasingly recognizing the importance of considering the dynamic human body, individual experiences, and diverse body types in design. This holistic approach, combined with technological advancements, is leading to more inclusive, comfortable, and innovative fashion designs while maintaining the crucial tangible aspects of clothing in the field of traditional fashion design. All of these developments suggest a growing awareness of the body as a crucial aspect of fashion design and open the door to discussing how a transition into digital space might handle questions of physicality.
This post was written with the assistance of Perplexity AI.
1 Hassan, “Thinking of the Moving Body in Motion as the Starting Point for the Fashion Design.”
2 Robinson, “Body Styles: Redirecting Ethics and the Question of Embodied Empathy in Fashion Design.”
3 Neto and Leal, “Genderless Fashion Design: From Binary Fashion to Bio-Segmentation. Body Biotypes and Somatotypes as Main Bases to Inclusive Fashion Design.”
4 Odhiambo et al., “Creation of Databases for a Virtual Training Library in Fashion Design.”
Sources:
Hassan, Furat Jamal. “Thinking of the Moving Body in Motion as the Starting Point for the
Fashion Design.” Al-Academy, no. 112 (June 15, 2024): 75–86.
https://doi.org10.35560jcofarts1401.
Neto, Maria João Pereira, and Maria Inês Leal. “Genderless Fashion Design: From Binary Fashion to Bio-segmentation. Body Biotypes and Somatotypes as Main Bases to Inclusive Fashion Design.” AHFE International, January 1, 2022. https://doi.org/10.54941/ahfe1001870.
Odhiambo, Sheilla, Alexandra De Raeve, Cosmin Copot, Ion Razvan Radulescu, Andreja Rudolf, Tadeja Penko, Xianyi Zeng, et al. “Creation of Databases for a Virtual Training Library in Fashion Design.” Communications in Development and Assembling of Textile Products 5, no. 2 (August 16, 2024): 140–50. https://doi.org/10.25367/cdatp.2024.5.p140-150.
Robinson, Todd. “Body Styles: Redirecting Ethics and the Question of Embodied Empathy in Fashion Design.” Fashion Practice 15, no. 1 (February 24, 2022): 113–35. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2022.2026048.
Further Reading:
Neto, Ana, and João Ferreira. “Lasting Bonds: Understanding Wearer-Clothing Relationships Through Interpersonal Love-Theory.” Fashion Theory 27, no. 5 (January 26, 2023): 677–707. https://doi.org/ 10.1080/1362704x.2023.2170706.
Ruggerone, Lucia. “The Feeling of Being Dressed: Affect Studies and the Clothed Body.” Fashion Theory 21, no. 5 (November 21, 2016): 573–93. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2016.1253302.
